Illustrator files are made with Adobe Illustrator CS3, CS4, CS5, CS6 and CC; if you work in an earlier, older version of Illustrator, I can export the file as a legacy format for you. Dimensions on the car vector drawings are in SI units and thus in millimeters. Dune Buggy outlines. Dune Buggy templates. Dune Buggy CAD drawings. Feb 10, 2019 - Explore COLBY MORGAN's board 'dune buggy plans' on Pinterest. See more ideas about dune buggy, buggy, sand rail. Keep to these simple instructions to get Building A Dune Buggy The Essential Manual Pdf prepared for submitting: Get the form you will need in the library of legal templates. Open the template in our online editor. Keep to these simple instructions to get Building A Dune Buggy The Essential Manual Pdf prepared for submitting: Get the form you will need in the library of legal templates. Open the template in our online editor.

Portable Document Format (.pdf) Scalable Vector Graphics (.svg) AutoCAD (.dwg) Drawing Exchange Format (.dxf). Dune Buggy CAD drawings Dune Buggy blueprints.

Download a PDF of free go kart plans and see my online guide that will teach you how to build a simple go kart from scratch. Check it out below! Download a Free PDF of Go Kart Plans Below you can download the free PDF of go kart plans, and check out the exact go kart parts kit I received to build this 2 seater go kart frame in my garage. The downloadable PDF plans include everything you need to build the two seat go kart from start to finish. How to Build a Go Kart: The Steps Now that you have the plans (download above by clicking on the orange go kart) you can build your own go kart from scratch in an efficient manner! Thanks, Kartfab! My Dad and I completed the go kart a few months ago.

We used your free plans and were planning on using the centrifugal clutch one wheel drive setup but decided to put a torque converter and a live axle on the original frame. We did not originally buy the go kart parts kit; we just bought the parts separately and found a few from some friends.

Instead of using 1″ square tube, we got 1″ angle iron from a friend and welded it together to make square tube. Thanks for the free plans and I’m sure the frame will last forever. That will not work unless you make the kart wider just in the middle (which will cause a safety hazard as you shift the center of gravity dramatically), or if you use a longer axle. If I remember correctly, with the 18″ tires properly inflated, there wasn’t much room left between the frame and the widest part of the tire, I want to say 1″ – 1.5″ – Have a look at the drawings – they are to scale and completely accurate, so you can judge just how much room you have there, or just look at the videos and pictures I posted on my live axle plans page to get an idea of about how much more room you would need (id say if you got an axle 4″ longer than the one that comes in the kit, you would be good). Dear KartFab, Been eyeing your plans for quite a while (6 months).

I don’t want to build the go kart to exactly how it is shown, but with a few adjustments. I want to make a longer frame with the engine in the front of the kart having an exhaust and drive chain line lead to the back because I want to turn the back into storage (little carry-ons, backpacks). I’m going to do the free plans then modify it (live axle, 18 HP engine- TOWING!!!, and of course a longer frame for the engine). I noticed you are using a CAD Program. What program are you using? Do you have a 3D Model download for the free plans? I can then modify it to how I want to build it.

Thanks, Sam Keep up the good work! Mathias, I cannot do your homework for you.

Thanks for asking though. However, I can tell you where to find materials for your calculations. Engine gives you torque, power (hp), rpms – look up the engine’s users manual or specifications for that.

Torque converter alters gear ratio, and you use that to multiply against the static gear ratio to determine top speed, and torque at wheel assuming a 20% power loss through the torque converter. Jackshaft and axle sprocket determine your static gear ratio, but the torque converter changes it based on load. So you have been given plenty of information with this, now you have to use your brain and what you are learning in school to figure out the rest. I’m interested in buying one. Do you have pictures of what it looks like? Is it similar in design to the ones in your plans but with a single seat?

Can you give me the dimensions, Length and width? I presume since it is basic it is a fixed axle, if I wanted to modify it to a live axle at some point in the future is that possible (assuming some welding/frame modification would be required to the rear frame)?

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What engine and clutch do you recommend for the kart? I was thinking of getting the Predator 212cc from Harbor Freight and Tools?

Can you send me an email with how to contact you? Dave, the GC engine is pretty good. I beleive it is a step down from the GX engines (the main difference being a cast iron sleeve in the GX series makes it last much longer), so the engine may not last super long.

However, if you go to harbor freight tools, you can pick up a predator 212cc engine for $99. Most of us go karters use this as a direct replacement. If the GC engine works, you should be good to go though. Not sure about exhaust, but if you know someone that welds, it would be easy to custom fab something up. This is a sweet go kart and it’s pretty awesome going on, i was wondering if you could build me that orange go kart you had and tell me how much money you would charge.

Please try and give me a good deal I know how muck that kart worth and it will be great if we have a deal of less than 800 but we could always work something out you know, Im really desperate in finding a go kart, and also if you are in America i couldn’t do it for 800 because Im from Canada and it would be very expensive for me. But anyways please reply back and have a great day. Wow So it looks like you know your stuff. Anyway I am writing to ask some advice. I have some parts from ol go cart and as I’m getting up in years and short on walk, I want to build a mobility cart for myself. As I am a fan of the 2 wheel front steering and single rear wheel power design. What I have is a couple axles / sprockets, 6 wheels.

What I have in mind is what I call a chainsaw design were I will build the cart with the steering up frunt and a muli ( 4 wheels ) chain driven dual powered rear axle. With some sort of electric motor, batteries. As I am around 300lbs. It will have to be beefy. Any ideas will be welcome. Hey, Have you ever thought of adding a forum section to this site? A place customers can go to run some modifications / changes from your plans by each other?

Also a place to share our builds and pictures of it to show how we are doing. It could also serve as a place to help with potential repairs and or just specific help to an exact question? I just thought it’d be cool to see have an area to share information and pictures for nothing more than showing up how the builds come out. I realize you are great at answering our questions and explaining things, I just thought some added resource to that would be cool. Just an idea -Mike. Yes you can pay with a credit card. The billing information is required for all online credit card purchases, make sure the billing address you submit matches the card.

It’s also needed to assess if taxes should be applied to the order or not. The plans are in electronic PDF form, once the purchase is made an e-mail is sent that allows you to download and save these prints to your computer, tablet, phone or any other device that can read PDF format and has accesss to the internet. You are also given exclusive rights to a private section of the website that provides a lot more help in terms of this fabrication. I don’t work for them, I myself just purchased the plans last week and have already started acquiring all of the parts for the build. You don’t need to hold onto the frame when turning, unless you are driving like a crazy person and drifting around. If you plan on driving with a passenger (like a crazy person), the passenger would need to hold on for dear life, and that is why the side guards are there. This is a go kart, not a car, or a mini buggy.

You could change up the way you attach the seat and install a fiberglass racing go kart seat to avoid sliding off if you plan to drive like you stole it, but its kind of overkill. Aluminum is lighter, but it wont make it faster. Aluminum requires special welding equipment and WILL bend/dent and is not structurally safe (in my opinion) for any sort of go kart build. No, the free plans will not accommodate anything above 6.5 hp but my deluxe live axle plans will.

You will likely need to lengthen the frame by a few inches though to accommodate the bigger engine so you dont have to slide the seat so far forward to avoid having the engine hit the seat. The place that sells the kits sells a bolt on 40 series torque converter too if you dont already have one. You might need to call them and place your order over the phone so they will not give you the 30 series torque converter, instead the 40 series with back plate. The existing motor mount on the deluxe kit will also fit the v-twins with no modifications. Im 6’3″ and I ride in it alright. It is never really ‘comfortable’ to ride it a go kart. Most people ride with bent knees and whatnot.

Even the way that the seat is set up is drastically different than the way a car is set up. There is 4″ of play in the seat slider.

You may be able to get away with moving the dead axle rearward by a few inches, and moving the seat slider bracket back a few inches. You will also have a gap in the floor pan then, so it might be best to lengthen the floor pan as well. I dont think you will need to stretch the frame, just move the axle, seat slider brackets, engine mount, and side rails back all the same amount.

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There is extra room on the back of the frame so overall length will not need to be changed. All of these changes are at your own risk and up to you to figure out as they aren’t according to my original plans. Hope that helps!

So my 16 yr old son comes to me and saysMom I wanna build my own Go Kart. Thats all I want for Christmas this year is money to buy the parts. Well I hate Christmas with no presents to open. So I decided to do some research and found you. And lucky for me I see my son has posted asking total cost so I think I chose the right site. 😉 Anyways, I bought the items on the list and he will have lots of pieces and parts to open.

Thank you for inspiring my son. He is a boyscout and has built lots of things so I have alot of faith in him to accomplish this. Hey U;) I’m from Germany, live in a little City near Colonge/Bonn (if u know it^^), so I’m sorry for my whore english!^^ I wanna built this funny Kart!

But my question is, for the brake in the rear have u take only one Brakedisc!? And what is the difference from a live-axle to a dead-axle (english to German, i can’t image that^^) In the past i drove semi-professional Kartraces with Sebastian Vettel (u know him seriously from the F1)nice to know 4 u!;) If i start the built i wanna send the whole Project in Pics with the Status(perhaps i have some questions the on top)can we make that i contact privatly for this!? Dennis, the free go kart plans only require a brake band and brake drum.

It is only driven with power to one wheel, and the passenger side wheel is not powered (dead axle). The live axle, is simply a solid axle that transfers power to both the rear wheels. Dead axle= 1 wheel drive, live axle= 2 wheel drive. The best thing to do is do the whole project on a forum if you are wanting to show pictures and status updates.

The best place is DIYGoKarts (just search google). I am on the forum there and many people can help. If you have everything to build this kart, then im assuming you got the parts kit for the go kart? If not, then you will be SOL in a lot of places. Here is the motor mount itself which has a mounting pattern of 6 1/2″ x 3″ for the holes (standard for all industrial 4 stroke engines between 2.5 and 7 hp).

Hope that helps! If you decided to not get the part you can use those dimensions and put a lip on the mount of about 1/2″ to 3/4″ so it will clear the drive wheel.

Sometimes its just better to get a prefabricated part than to mess with making one. The lip is essential for structural integrity and spacing.

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The plate is 1/8″ thick. Does that give you enough information? No problem Mitch! Most 125cc engines I have seen are shifter/dirt bike engines. These have a lot of power and rev much higher (this means the kart will accelerate much faster, and have a much much higher top speed). This is incredibly unsafe and I do not recommend, nor condone it. This kart is a go kart that’s good the way it was designed, for a small 4-7 hp industrial engine.

If you do end up putting a 125cc dirt bike style engine on it, you do it at your own risk. But if you do, you should at least consider putting a live axle on it and re-gearing it so you will go slower, and not flip it at a higher speed. Again, I do not advise putting a dirt bike engine on this kart, just a simple engine you can get at harbor freight, or off any power equipment like a briggs and stratton, honda, predator, or subaru industrial 4 stroke engine that revs up to 3600 RPM and has a 3/4″ shaft. I hope that helps. Trust me on this one.

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I have thought about it before, and this kart is not designed to go 60 mph and I don’t want you to take that risk. 25 mph is fast enough for this kart.